Nikon shooters who want consistent strobe exposure with minimal task loading: traveling photographers, macro specialists who need repeatability at close working distances, and wide-angle shooters balancing ambient and strobe light. The unit serves as an optical TTL trigger, letting you switch between i-TTL and manual from the camera for efficient, predictable results across reef, wreck, and cold-water environments.

• Camera: Works with Nikon bodies that provide hot-shoe flash control (DSLR and mirrorless). Verify your model’s flash settings support i-TTL/Manual.
• Housing: Requires a hot-shoe pass-through and optical bulkheads (or fiber ports) to route the LED outputs to your strobes.
• Strobes: Designed for fiber-optic strobes from major brands (e.g., Inon, Sea&Sea, Retra). Set strobes to their optical TTL or manual mode accordingly.

Because strobe behavior can vary by revision/firmware, contact Bluewater Photo with your exact camera, housing, and strobe models for a checked parts list and any needed accessories (cables, adapters, or masks).

• Mount the converter externally per the housing’s guidance; connect the internal hot-shoe lead; route fiber cables cleanly and avoid tight bends.
• On the boat: set camera flash mode to i-TTL or Manual; set strobes to matching mode; confirm Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) behavior if using TTL.
• Dry-fire test: half-press to wake strobes, confirm LEDs pulse, check both strobes fire evenly, then perform a quick exposure test at your intended shutter/aperture.
• Before entry: verify o-rings/ports are clean, fibers are fully seated, and strobe batteries are fresh to avoid recycle-time exposure variance.

• i-TTL: Great for changing subject distance or fast-moving macro where you want consistent exposure. Use FEC to bias brighter/darker without touching the strobes.
• Manual: Choose for controlled scenes (e.g., wide-angle with fixed strobe distance) or creative consistency across a sequence; adjust power from the camera when supported.
• Shutter discipline: Stay at or below your camera’s X-sync to prevent partial frames; most underwater strobes do not support HSS in optical TTL configurations.

A practical workflow is to start in i-TTL for acquisition, then lock in Manual once distance and water conditions are stable.

• Signal path: If a strobe misfires, reseat fiber ends, inspect for kinks/clouding, and confirm the converter’s LEDs face the ports squarely.
• Exposure drift: In TTL, check FEC and ensure strobes are fully recycled; in Manual, verify camera flash control hasn’t reverted to TTL after a power cycle.
• Power & firmware: Follow the manufacturer’s guidance for the converter’s power source and any firmware updates. Carry spares (o-rings, fiber tips, batteries if applicable).
• Aftercare: Rinse thoroughly in fresh water, operate controls to flush salt, and dry before storage. Avoid direct sun/heat on LEDs and cabling.

Bluewater Photo provides pre-trip checks and post-sale support, including compatibility verification and workflow tuning for your specific kit.